W.E.B. Du Bois' Letter 

to His Daughter Yolande D. Williams

Moscow, December 10, 1958

I know you have said some nice things about me and my letter writing since August 8. Well, I have been busy, sick, well, and moving over half the earth. I knew of course that a journey like this was a risk at my age, but after all at ninety anything is a risk and I decided that just to sit home and wait for death was no greater risk than traveling among friends and well-wishers.

Of course I made the initial error of doing too much: two lectures and two broadcasts in England which laid me low with a vicious attack of "gastro-eneritis" whatever that may be, and Shirley [Graham] was scared stiff. But we were in Paul Robeson's apartment (he was absent in Russia) and the British social medicine certainly did its stuff. the best of care and no charge. I came out apparently none the worse for the wear. I had to miss Belgium but we went to Holland where we had adventures with broadcasts, lectures, and a reception.

Then by train to Paris just at election time. "France I hardly knew you." But despite the terror, I attended the Juliot-Curie memorial and sat on the red-draped rostrum at the right hand of the presiding chairman, Thorez. I sat long in the Luxemburg gardens and rode along the Champs Elysees and the Bois. of course a half day in the Louvre. Then election Sunday I spent at a lovely chateau outside Paris, so peaceful and lovely with French and American friends.

Then came a cablegram. We must fly to Tashkent, to a meeting of African and Asiatic authors; expenses paid, etc. Where was Tashkent? Somewhere south of Moscow. We flew by jet plane and found Tashkent only hundreds of miles south but also as far east of Moscow as Los Angeles is of New York! We were in central Asia, near Xanadu "Where Kublai Khan, a stately palace built!" We were  honored guests, housed in a new and beautiful hotel, with servants and a personal interpreter, car, and chauffeur. I was elected to the presidium and made a speech. We were entertained by Indians, Chinese, Africans, and Russians and then wisked back to Moscow and then to Prague where we were guests of the Czechoslovakian Government. Again a hotel suite, car, and chauffeur and the most gorgeous honors ever bestowed on me.

Charles University of Prague was founded in 1348!! The great Hall of ceremonies has been restored with great arches and tiers of seats. The Rector and Faculty in caps, gowns, and golden chains, were led by six richly caparisoned trumpeters with long gilt trumpets, sounded the ancient alarums as we marched in, I coming last with my official interpreter trailing behind.

Shirley, Elizabeth Moos, the Sterns and several hundred visitors (including a group from the American Embassy), sat in the seats at the side. We marched to the high rostrum, where the Rector nominated me "Scientiate Historiae Doctor, Honoris Causa" I promised in Latin to obey their regulations. Then I made a speech in English and the trumpets blared forth in a great music which seemed vaguely familiar. It was nearly finished before I realized that they were playing "Star-spangled Banner" for the first American so honored in a century. Then we all marched out, I leading the way.

After two weeks in Prague with five days at Karlsbad baths, we went to the German Democratic Republic where 66 years ago I attended the University of Berlin. It looks for all the world as it did then; but its name is changed to Humboldt University, dropping the name of the old king Frederick William. Here again in a quiet and solemn ceremony, with Bach instead of fanfare, I received the doctorate in sociology which I had coveted in1894, but was not permitted to take the examination because the Germans did not then recognize my study at Harvard a part of German university requirements! I spent Sunday with Stephen Heyn and Stephan Sweig was at the ceremony.

By this time as you may suspect, I was again good and sick with a badly inflamed bladder. We flew to Moscow and I was on Red Square at the great celebration with half a million spectators. A gaily uniformed major escorted me, Shirley and our official interpreter, from the Square to the hotel and on the way he stopped and saluted Khruschev, and Khruschev raised his hat to me. That night we attended a reception at the Kremlin, met the Government, and I talked alone with Khruschev.

Next day I went in my auto with Shirley to a sanitarium and here I am. It is a great solemn place with tall pines and snow. We have servants for every wish and all are as kind as can be. I have been here a month and have had every probe and test possible.

My heart has been measured a dozen times; my blood tested, my blood pressure taken and I have been poked inside and out. We had planned to go to Ghana as guest, but my physician assembled and said "Sorry," but we cannot release you yet. So off went Shirley to Africa as guest of the Soviet Embassy with my speech in her pocket. I felt pretty low, but I told her of course she must go. My interpreter comes out every other day and a young veteran is stationed at my call permanently.

I am not exactly happy for the food is horrible to western taste being unseasoned but it's pure and nourishing and today I go off medicine. Shirley will probably return next Sunday or Monday. Meantime I am growing in strength and the doctors agree that I am in fine shape.

By the way 60% of the physicians and specialists are women. They are very pleasant but sometimes the situations are embarrassing: "Remove your pants" said a woman physician to my friend Albert Kahn. "May I keep on my socks?" he asked. She said yes and saw no joke. In my case 3 nurses appeared to give me my hot bath at night. Shirley persuaded them to let her do it, tho they consented with doubts. When she left for Africa I surrendered and now get washed thoroughly and tucked in bed each night by one or more indifferent nurses. They come and put on my boots for my daily walks and a masseur gives me the most thorough going over each day that I ever had.

Well, I go back to Moscow for a month's visit and then to China where we are invited to be the guests of the state. We plan to get back home in may or June.

I hope you're well and keeping in good feeling. Let Du Bois [his granddaughter] read this if you can. Kiss her and the boy. Tell her not to think of France -- it's France, "but living France no more!" Prejudice and meanness have crept in. Greet Arthur the husband and to you all my love!

Dec 13:

Word has just come from Shirley; she read my speech  to the Congress at Accra on Friday, to great applause. Pravada, the official daily in Moscow sent a car out last night to get a copy of the speech and the radio mentioned it. I'm hoping Shirley will return by Monday or Tuesday. Did I say we have a movie each night, in great upholstered fauteuils? Also there is a radio and TV in my bedroom!

Good-bye and love again!

Source: The Journal of Negro History, Volume LXXVIII, No. 3, Summer 1993.

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update 24 November 2007